WITH THE SHELL ON OUR BACK

Week 27

Snow!! Our arch enemy!! The forecast shows a storm coming right through here this afternoon! What to do? Stay put? Try to outrun it? They are so accurate with their weather reports in the East, we have to take this seriously!

We want to see the Carter's Grove Plantation on our way to the Hampton Roads area (Norfolk, Virginia Beach, Newport News), so we head out rather early to see the Plantation and get to Virginia Beach ahead of the snow, hopefully. It was cold at Carter's Grove, and spitting a little snow, but it is a beautiful Mansion on the James River, all decked out for Christmas. I love the way they decorate here -- they use lots of fruits and vegetables, greenery of every kind, and just a little ribbon or commercial decorative items. They had a large tree that was strung with lots of popcorn and handmade ornaments -- quite lovely. This was originally a tobacco plantation, but in it's later years was a farm (multiple crops vs a single crop on a true plantation -- interesting, huh?).

By the time we got near Newport News, it was snowing and raining, but not sticking. Just 25 more miles to Virginia Beach -- will we make it?!! By the time we arrive it is snowing sideways, but still not sticking. It's about 1:30 in the afternoon, so as the temperature starts to drop -- it will stick. We found a great condo/hotel for $45 -- right on the beach! Great for storm watching. Because we have a full kitchen (and a big jacuzzi tub!), we ventured to the grocery -- don't know how long we'll be here! Got enough for dinner tonight, breakfast, and lunch tomorrow and tucked in to watch it snow.

By bedtime, the snow was still blowing sideways, but was now sticking on the beach and boardwalk. But all around us, there were people in trouble -- many people just pulled off the roads and holed up -- several hotels had a bonus night in the Norfolk area as people streamed in from the mess. They handle snow here just about as well as we do in Portland!

We left our drapes open in the bedroom, and the morning dawned strikingly sunny, crisp and clear. Snow gone at the beach, but roads around still a problem -- schools closed, accidents, -- the usual.

By noon, all seemed well, so we ventured forth, heading for The Outer Banks and Cape Hatteras. Wonderful drive with clear roads, but snow still on lawns, trees, and parking lots. By the time we reached Kitty Hawk, there was no evidence of snow (and indeed none fell in this area), and the temperatures were more moderate. We stopped to see the Wilbur and Orville Wright Monument. Saw the reconstruction of the plane, the field where they flew the four times on Dec. 17 -- and the monument that has been erected on the hill near the strip. Pretty neat.

Cape Hatteras National Seashore is really pretty --- but you can't see the shore for most of the way -- bummer. We got into Hatteras (the town) about dark, and found the only hotel that was open! She gave us the name of two restaurants -- neither were open! Rather than drive back 10 miles to the previous town -- we got into the Van and found leftover meatloaf from last night, a loaf of bread, a can of Progresso Calm Chowder, mandarin orange slices, plates, bowls, silverware, and napkins. Soup and Sandwiches made a great dinner, cooked in the microwave in our room!! The RWH is so handy sometimes!

Another gorgeous day in the making -- sunny and a little warmer than the last couple. The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is one of the most famous in the US -- and the tallest at 208'. It is the one with the black spiral painting going up it. I'm sure in the summer this is a hopping place, but today it is almost closed. If not for the Car Ferry (free!), I'm sure it would be closed!

When we reached the Okracoke side, we had a few miles to the town across more gleaming sand dunes, beach grass, and wind blown trees. Now THIS is a cute town! All little, independent shops. The two groceries are both "general store" type places -- one even has a wooden floor. We have two hours til our next Ferry ($10 - 2 1/2 hours) back to the mainland, so we decide to do a little exploring. Found the lighthouse, the harbor, a few shops that were still open -- and a bunch of Inns that were open -- we should have come here last night -- much more interesting town, and more choices. I finished up the last of the meatloaf in sandwiches for us -- got a drink and some chips and we had lunch watching the birds in the harbor.

This is also the town where the pirate, Blackbeard, was captured and killed in a fierce fight off the coast! There is also an obscure little British Civil War cemetary that the Queen still sends a British Flag to preside over it every year! They have a great idea for their visitor tours. Each location has an AM radio location to tune in to on your radio. They have a 2-3 minute tape that runs continuously that tells about the particular site -- cool, huh?

Our crossing to Cedar Island, NC was nippy, but we caught up on our reading -- and Phil on his napping! There were only 3 cars on this big ole Ferry! Talked to a nice couple who were vacationing in the middle of their move from Alabama to Texas. They had been up in Massachusetts and are on their way to Texas. Each was driving a big truck and pulling a trailer -- not with their possessions, but with a BMW Roadster and a trailer load of tools!! Hmmmm.....

One of our travel books had written up a little town called Beaufort, NC that was right on our way, so we decided to stop here, and were not disappointed. Found the Beaufort Inn - cute Inn right on the waterfront with a wonderful hot tub. Since we had been driving and sitting for a couple of days, we decided to take off on foot to explore the town. Over 200 restored houses from the late 1700's and 1800's. A nice waterfront downtown, all decked out for Christmas really added to its charm. Pertty wreaths surrounding each gas streetlight all up and down the main street. So quaint. Our hosts at the Inn were really friendly and helpful. Even went up and warmed up our room, while we were out walking!

After a lovely full breakfast in the dining room/living room of the Inn the next morning, we were off to see our friends, John and Suzanne Heinze in Rocky Mount. Hated to leave, this is a really nice spot.

Had a great evening with John and Suzanne -- they are a hoot -- transplanted Oregonians, who can hardly wait to get back, but making the best of the situation while they're there -- 13 years now! Suzanne was an old telephone company gal -- business office and yellow pages -- we knew many of the same poeple. Hi to Jean Sowles and Susan Corey in particular!! She is still close to Diane Owens, who I remember, just vaguely.

Phil's daughter, Amy, and Suzanne's daughter, Michelle, are good friends -- that is our connection to them. They have a lovely home and we enjoyed being in a home again. Suzanne is teaching Spanish in high school now (doesn't have her certificate, but they are desparate for teachers here - so they let her teach anyway -- I'm sure she's better than most of the "certified" teachers!). They took us to their favorite local haunt - Woody's, and we had a grand time.

Off to Raleigh to line up our Van repairs while we are home -- our generator still doesn't work since the accident in Minneapolis, and the RWH needs some service work. Found a good place, who will keep it secure while we are gone -- that was way easy!!

The Governor's Mansion, in downtown Raleigh was having it's Christmas Open House and we just blended in with the crowds. The most interesting thing was the use of Tobacco leaves in the decorations -- they really looked great! Reminds me, -- I had mentioned to Suzanne that it seems like a lot of people here smoke. She laughed, and said in her best, fake, southern accent, "Shhuugg, that's the smell of money burnin', we love it here!". We are already learning that the South is, indeed, a different country!

Headed out on a day trip to see The Research Triangle Park, Duke University, and UNC-Chapel Hill. Today is in the 50's -- no coat most of the day. That seemed really weird, as we have been bundled up most of the time since Cape Cod! Phil got to see his stadiums and arenas (it is Basketball they are well known for here, so we had to look at those in addition to the football stadiums!).

Spent a couple of hours wandering around Duke, and barely scratched the surface of this very large campus. The buildings are all gothic style, most with leaded windows still in them. The housing situation was interesting. They have these very large quads of buildings that house Fraternities/Soroities, Clubs, and dorms all side by side in the same buildings. Unique, but it seems to work for them. This is a school of 5,000 of the cleanest cut, friendliest, kids you have ever seen. It has a Methodist affiliation, and their "Chapel" would put most churches in Europe to shame -- incredible!

Well, our last weekend is here, and we're heading out to golf. The Pinehurst area is close by (about an hour) and Myrtle Beach is about 3 hours -- but it is warmer there. Still haven't decided where to go. We are embarking on our last week before the holidays -- getting anxious to get home and see Portland again. We're missing the kids and grandkids and all our friends. The calendar is already getting full.

But, you know, we're already planning what we'll do when we get back here after the holidays -- I think the travelling is in our blood!!