Half a year down as of this week!! We can't believe it -- the time will fly by when we come back refreshed after the holidays and back into the good weather in the southern states. Before we know it, it will be June, and the Great American Adventure will be over! We've visited over half the states, but have about 2/3 of the National Parks left, as most of them are in the south and southwest. Clinton just added a new one this week, in southern Colorado.
Well, PSU disappointed us today in Delaware. We braved the cold to watch them lose -- badly. But it was fun. Few PSU fans there, so we were small, but loud!! Mostly players parents. A group of fans noticed our Oregon plates on the Van at halftime (we were warming up with straight scotch -- all we had!). They asked us when we had to leave to get here -- they thought it was pretty funny when we said June 1st!!
Off to Shenandoah NP tomorrow -- let's hope the weather warms up -- it is in the Mountains -- it may be a brief visit!
What a glorious day! The Park was sparkling in its winter best. The ice on the road was all gone (thankfully), and the sun shone all afternoon. All of the lodges and visitor centers were closed, but this park is all about scenery anyway. We almost had the Park to ourselves -- only saw about a dozen cars along the way. Frequent overviews of the Shenandoah Valley, the Blue Ridge Mountains, tiny hamlets, and a river that meanders all through it all -- the Shenandoah --made for a relaxing ride. The bare tress scaling up and down the hills look like brush bristles along the mountain tops runing along for miles -- we were amazed at how even the tree heights were that made the "bristle" look. We drove about 2/3 of the 105 mile length of the park and headed for Charlottesville.
Montecello, Thomas Jefferson's home was our destination in Charlottesville. As Phil said, it really creates an intimate feeling about a person when you wander through their home and hear all about how the person lived there. Jefferson was no exception. You definately felt the difference in lifestyle between this home and Mt. Vernon. Jefferson was much more an aristicrat, and his home reflected that. He was a very intelligent, scholarly man, and adapted many European trends in his home. Skylights, alcove bedrooms, dumb waiters, and revolving cabinets are examples. A beautiful home for its day.
We also took the opportunity to see the UVA campus -- designed and started by Jefferson. Wonderful federal style buildings. Historic downtown Charlottesville is nicely done, but, unfortunately, like many downtown malls, has many empty store fronts that detract from it's attractiveness.
Before we left town, we decided to check out The Boar's Head Inn, which was our first choice for Thanksgiving, but they couldn't accommodate us. We wanted to see what the big deal was! A classic Country Inn spread over several acres of rolling hills. Their dining room is a very well known 4 star restaurant-- a little expensive, but not bad. The ambience is perfect for a Southern Inn. We very much enjoyed our lunch.
Off to Appomattox Court House, where the Civil War ended. After 6 days of fighting from Richmond, VA to Appomattox, near Lynchburg, General Lee sent a courier to advise General Grant that he was interested in the terms of a surrender. On Palm Sunday, the two met and signed the declaration to end the war at the McLean house in the town of Appomattox Court House (all county seats carried the name Court House in their names in those days). The reconstructed house, and about 20 other buildings make up the National Historic Park, with more well informed guides. The following Friday, on Good Friday, Lincoln was Assassinated. He never saw his dream of freeing the slaves come true. How sad.
From Appomattox, we back traced the route to Richmond along where the fighting had happened. Many mansions along the River, part the historic parks for the various battles along the way. Richmond is a very old city along the river, but, with a few exceptions, appears to be in decline. Many boarded up buildings, decaying buildings, neighborhoods in disrepair, and more panhandling than we've encountered anywhere.
The Jefferson Hotel, built in the 1700's is incredible. A huge Tiffany Glass dome, many stained glass windows, and marble columns make this a truly classic showcase. Virginia's only 5 star hotel, and the restuarant is also 5 star. We chose a small 70 room Inn down the street called the Linden Row Inn. Only 3 star, but cozy, quaint, huge rooms, great staff and much more affordable at $89 a night including breakfast, wine and cheese in the evening, newspapers, and other nice amenities. They have a courtyard that would be fabulous in the summer. We did walk down to The Jefferson for dinner -- absolutely wonderful. We had an alcove that was cozy and romantic. The food was excellent.
While in town we took in The Museum of the Confederacy -- a large display on Robert E Lee, Jefferson Davis's home during the later part of the war --the White House of the Confederacy, and a well done display of vignettes of various battles of the war. We learned a lot more about the South from this display and the curators there. The house was interesting for its large amount of actual furnishings that are still in the house -- many homes have "of the period" or "of the type" rather than the actual furnishings of the occupants. So many estates were forced to sell furnishings to pay debts.
Thomas Jefferson designed their State House, which isn't as impressive from the outside as many around the country, but it is very interesting inside. He wanted a peaked roof -- but a dome in all his works was his trademark, so he did an internal dome, under the peaked roof -- not visible from outside the building. It is lighted by two sets of skylights. A life size marble statue of Geroge Washington is in the rotunda. It weighs 36,000 lbs (the floor had to be reinforced for it) and the detail is so life like. The sculptor spent several days with Washington, watching his movements, talking to him, taking measurements, and making a mask of his face while he laid on the kitchen table -- the father of our country on the kitchen table with quills sticking out of his nostrils and mouth so he could breathe!! It's quite an incredible work of art.
We also saw St. John's Church where Patrick Henry gave his famous "give me Liberty or give me death" speech. A small white church on a hilltop, with the very common church burial ground surrounding it.
Most of you Portlander's know the name Pamplin. Robert Pamplin Sr. worked with Phil's dad at G-P. The Pamplin's have gone on to become very wealthy. They are originally from Virgina. Near Richmond their Foundation has built a new (1999) state of the art exhibit about the Civil War -- $24M worth!! We didn't have time to visit, but the locals were raving about it.
Onward to Williamsburg. If there is one place you could take your kids or grandkids to learn about Colonial days -- this is it. It is expensive ($30 pp per day--but multi-day packages), but it is authentiaclly reconstructed. Some buildings are original (the money to purchase and rebuild the town came from John D. Rockefeller initially), but the reconstructions have been painstakingly done, even down to cutting and milling their own lumber, making their own nails, and using only tools of the era. It is a totally self contained town with all the businesses of the time. Thankfully, within the historic area only things you would find during the 1700's are available for sale and to eat. Really cool!
One of the highlights was seeing George Washington speak to the locals (us) about his recent trip to the 1st Continental Congress and the resolutions that came out of that. Mostly on the issue of taxation without representation. He then fielded questions ranging from his earlier experiences leading in wartime to his teeth to his affair with a married neighbor. This guy was good!! He couldn't be stumped!!
The evening brought us to one of their colonial taverns for dinner. Authentic food of the time, strolling minstrils, and a great atmosphere (including dim candlelight which made reading menus interesting!) and a fun evening. It is very cold out tonight -- they are talking light snow tomorrow night.
This is Williamsburg's Grand Illimunation weekend and the town is filling up by the busload! Glad we did Williamsburg yesterday. We did get up early for their parade at 9AM. I was disappointed. I expected a colonial parade with all the emphasis on that here, instead we got any small town's parade -- fire trucks, police cars, antique cars, local bands and a few floats. Nonetheless, it was packed for miles. Our hotel was near the end of the parade, and we watched from there.
Off to see Jamestown and Yorktown. Jamestown is the real location of the first English settlers -- not Plymouth as we've always been led to believe!! Actually, the Spanish were the first European settlers, arriving in St. Augustine, FL long before Jamestown. Jamestown was first settled in 1607 -- well before the Pilgrims in 1620. The people at Jamestown told us that Plymouth has better press agents!! Actually, since Jamestown disappeared as a settlement, Plymouth claims they are the first permanent (as in surviving) settlement. It's all politics!!
The National Historic Park is the location of the real settlement, but not much is surviving from the settlement. Archeologists are working at the site to uncover more of the early buildings, but it is just alot of outlines at this time! But a very nice location right on the river. The problem with the location was the brackish water unfit to drink, mosquitos that led 90% of the first settlers to die from malaria, and hot, humid summers.
Down the Colonial Parkway to Yorktown to see where the Revolutionary War ended with the surrender of Cornwallis. Another Battlefield Audio tape and we were off to learn about this victory. Lots to see in the battlefield, and a well done Visitors Center also enhanced our learning. Saw the restored Moore House where the documents ending the war were signed..
This ends another week, and tomorrow we're off to the Hampton Roads area and back down along the coastline. Time is getting very close to coming home -- another week and a half.