WITH THE SHELL ON OUR BACK

Week 20

The Minutemen marching across Lexington Green to meet the Red Coats. Paul Revere riding out from Boston to warn the troops, the march on the North Bridge -- and the shot heard 'round the world. "Do not fire unless fired upon--but if they intend to have War, let it begin here". And with those skirmishes in April of 1875, the Revolutionary War had begun, and it would last for 8 long years, as the young settlers fought for, first, representation in England (remember "Taxation without representation"), and later for their independence. Even after independence was declared on July 4, 1776, that was far from the end of the conflict.. Many did not want Independence -- only representation.

Walking around Lexington and Concord and through the Minuteman National Historic Site really makes it all come alive. The actual locations, and many of the buildings are well preserved or restored. The Minutemen were much like our National Guard. They trained in each town, and stood at the ready "in a minute", but were not part of the regular Army.

It was a rainy day -- just like it may have been in April of 1775. Took refuge in a wonderful Restaurant in Concord--the Walden Grille. Another great lunch in another well kept New England town. Would like to explore some shops (Christmas is coming you know!), but the weather was too lousy--even though we were bundled up and had our boots on!

We did, however, take a little detour to see Walden Pond. No signs left of Thoreau, except a small marker. The pond was so shrouded in fog and mist, we couldn't even get a decent picture of it. Actually, it looked no different than hundreds of other lovely ponds we have seen throughout New England.

Had missed Plymouth when we were with Haley, so headed back over to the coast to see where the Pilgrims landed. Plymouth Rock was a major disappointment -- just a puny little rock with 1620 on it -- encased in a monument. It could be any rock!! We did enjoy the town of Plymouth though, and rode the narrated Trolley to see all the sites around town. The highlight though, was the Plimoth (original spelling) Plantation. It is a reconstruction of how it was in 1627 with character actors in role. They will talk to you about anything from 1627 -- but don't ask them about anything after that -- they don't know!! The dialects, the houses, the problems they had, their politics, cooking, keeping house, etc. were all demonstrated in good detail. Life was hard here in the colony, they lost half their people that first winter in 1620, and the colony is just beginning to recover.

From the Plantation, we went down to the Mayflower II. This exact replica was built in 1957 and sailed from England to Plymouth -- a square-rigged sailing ship hadn't been built in over 100 years -- many thought it wouldn't make it! But in 57 days it made the crossing into Plymouth harbor. It was really interesting seeing the conditions that those 103 people lived in, in their 83 day crossing in 1620. WOW - no wonder 1/2 of them died trying to establish a colony in December and January, while lliving on this ship. Only one person died on the crossing -- and a baby was born on the trip!

Had wanted to go to Martha's Vineyard while on the Cape, but ran out of time. So we decided, heck, the weather is improving, let's go back there. The next morning dawned rainy, but soon stopped, and we enjoyed a cloudy, but comfortable day at the Vineyard. Very different than Nantucket -- more ecletic, not so perfect and homogenous. Lots of wealth here also. More developed (6 towns) and more things to see. Took a really fun, funky Island tour on an old pink school bus. Our guide was a fun, young guy -- whom we could actually understand! Saw the Gingerbread cottages of Edgartown, the Clay Cliffs of Gay's Head (where they searched for JFK Jr's plane), the few remaining farms, and each of the little settlements, with interesting tidbits about what makes each unique. Went by Jackie O's compound, but had to look at postcards to actually see it!

Spent some time exploring the shops in Vineyard Haven -- most every other place was pretty well closed down for the season. The Ferry's only come to Vineyard Haven now, so all the activity focuses there. Didn't find anything we coldn't live without. Jumped the 5 PM Ferry back to Woods Hole and a quick 45 minutes had us back on the mainland. Another enjoyable day. I think we have fianlly seen the best of the Cape.

Heading for State number 28 -- Rhode Island. A short trip from the Cape into Provincetown. It's hard to get adjusted to these small states!! Blink and you could miss a whole state! Rhode Island is only 48 miles long and 37 miles wide! Time for Van service again. Need an oil change and transmission service (every 12,000 miles on the transmission seems a bit much -- but our weight must be tough on it!!) The Dodge dealer down in Newport could take us, so we headed there after visitng the AAA office in Providence to make arrangements to take the train to Washington DC next weekend to see Kristen, Eric and Megan. Really looking forward to seeing them!

We love Rhode Island! The weather has been gorgeous -- that helps, but this state is really pretty. Lots of rocky outcorppings, and lots of water everywhere. Newport is really a classy (and expensive) town. Found a nice Howard Johnson's for $55 Thursday night. We were having such a good time, we decided to stay over -- jumped to $95 for the weekend (the town just filled up - the weather mush have brought them), but it was still the best value in town! Very nice room, nice indoor pool and whirlpool for my ankle, and a convenient location to all the sights.

Weather in the 70's with a good wind. We had to go sailing!! Went out on a 72' Schooner -- and did it move! Lot's of wind in her sails -- we were clipping along at about 18 knots -- heeled over and moving! Hard to hang on on such a big boat! Saw the old fort, the harbor, the Newport Bridge (a mini- SF Bay bridge), the house on the rock, and Hammersmith - the family farm of the Bouviors -- as in Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy. She and Jack were married in Newport, and the reception was at this elegant mansion on the bay. What a glorious afternoon!

Made reservations at one of the many restuarants along the water. What a happening this place was. Saw people from the sailboat, talked to a couple of couples about our trip -- they bought us drinks! - nice people, but they couldn't imagine being together with your spouse 24x7x365!! They thought we were very brave. Sat next to a couple of tables from Plymouth from a Dentist Office. Cute people and had fun talking with them. Patty - we were trying to recruit them for John -- the dentists weren't too happy with us!! 3 dentists and only 2 hygenists -- I told them they had it all worng-- they loved it that I knew something about how a practice is run!!

The Guilded Age of the late 1800's. The Vanderbuilts, The Astors, The Morgans, and others -- what a time that must have been. Newport has more "Cottages" of that era than most any place. These were fabulous mansions that were just summer cottages for the rich and famous. Many are now museums, but many are still in private ownership. We bought a multi-mansion ticket, and saw a couple one day, and had to go back the next to see the rest. The opulence is just mind boggling. The parties these places have seen!! Driving along Ocean Avenue, and you can see not only the old mansions, but many "mansions" of today. These houses overlooking some of the most beautiful coastline we've seen, and beyond comprehension. Who really needs or can enjoy these monsterous places!! It is a lifestyle I can't even begin to relate to.

Newport is home to the first Tennis Club, called The Casino. It now houses the International Tennis Hall of Fame. You wander amongst the rooms of this elegant club, now museum. The restaurant, overlooking one of the 13 courts, is delightful. The exhibits, films, clothing and artifacts of this game are well done and fun to wander around for an hour or so.

We loved Newport -- one of our favorite places, so far. But we did have to move on -- we have to be ready for the Dr. again on Thursday in Stamford, Ct. and the train early on Friday to go see Eric & Kristen & Megan!! Much more to see between now and then. Fortunately these states are small, and the distances between things small. Off the Mystic, Ct. for tomorrow. Pizza anyone??!!

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