WITH THE SHELL ON OUR BACK

Week 19

Even though it is the middle of October, the popular destinations are still full on the weekends. We headed into Maine and the Acadia National Park area on a weekend, and we couldn't get within 50 miles of the popular areas (Bar Harbor, Ellsworth, etc.), so we stopped at Bangor, before we got into a problem. Once again, the Visitors Information people were very helpful in giving us current, up to date information. We were calling motels as we drove along. Even Bangor was very full. We found a place with the 2 rooms we needed (Haley was with us too, remember!). We asked directions, and the very exit we needed was directly in front of us -- we couldn't believe it -- nor could the lady at the motel!! Once again, we fell into a good solution right in front of us.

The weekend was beautiful -- the fall colors still magnificent. Acadia National Park is absolutely wondrous! It has it all. -- Wilderness, glorious views, water, and landscapes of beauty. The weather turned cold, quickly, as we reached Cadillac Mountain -- the highest point in the park, and it actually descended freezing rain upon us. We took a few pictures, and headed for lower ground!!

Portland, Maine was waiting for us, but it was several hours away. Haley's brother-in-law had made dinner reservations for us, so off we went to our "sister" city. Portland, ME is much smaller than our Portland, but it has a charm not unlike our own. It is a seaport city with a long history. Their historic district, where we had dinner, was so quaint, with its gas lamps, cobblestone streets, and buildings going back 100 years or more.

The next day, Richard was a gracious tour guide, showing us everything from the famous lighthouse to the housing in their equivalent to our Lake Oswego. Great country estates. We went to a great local seafood place where the wind howled, the sea splashed up giant sprays, and people lined up out the door to sample the great seafood. Another meal, we rolled out of the door. Fortunately, the salt spray greeted us, and brought us back to our senses quickly!! That place is a real feel of Maine!

Enjoyed being in "Portland" again -- but we were off for Boston, and Ruth and Bob's condo in the city. After a huge backup at the toll booth (all the "leaf peepers" were heading back to the city after the big Columbus Day weekend -- what a mess!), we arrived in the heart of Boston's Brookline area. A wonderful haven from which to explore a great city.

You can really see what the newscasters are talking about. The further south we went, the less the color. The Boston area was not yet in "full color", but it was in "full traffic nightmares"! They have this thing called "The Big Dig" going on, where they are redoing all the downtown freeways, and redoing some of the subway system. Been going for several years, and still many years to go -- don't know how they stand it! Streets stop mid block, signs lead to nowhere, lane directions change on a whim, and confused people are coping with the locals who whiz in and out with little regard to the confusion.

Nonetheless, Boston is still a great city. The brownstones of the Back Bay, the sparkling water everywhere you turn, a world-class public transportation system (The T), wonderful downtown parks, historic preservation side by side with modern buildings, great shopping, and delicious food of every possible type. We had a hard time choosing between Italian and the ever present seafood!

Spent a great day exploring Harvard and MIT via the T, then back downtown to see the Commons, shop a little, and have dinner with Haley's Mom who lives in a great high rise right in the heart of the city -- a fabulous location! She had scoped out an Italian Restaurant that was a prix fixe with more courses and food than you could possibly eat - what a pig out!!

Phil bought a sweatshirt at the "Coop" at MIT -- even he found the irony in him wearing a shirt from MIT!!

The next day we were back in the city to see the JFK Library. A beautiful facility in a gorgeous location overlooking one of his favorite sailing spots. The library was incredible-- but so sad. Bought an audio book of his Profiles in Courage read by JFK Jr. Haven't had the courage to start it.

Phil had never seen many of the historic locations in Boston (Eric - remember when we walked The Freedom Trail?), so we decided to brave the traffic again. We were spinning around down there is hysterics -- remember, this is in the middle of The Big Dig -- windows open waving people down to ask where we were -- wrong way on one ways -- through red lights -- through stop signs -- Haley finally blowing kisses to motorists to let us across 3 lanes of traffic!! But we eventually saw lots of things, and ended in the North End with a parking space right in the heart of the area -- my parking karma came through again! Walked all over down there, picked up great stuff for a picnic at the Cape and took home enough goodies for a wonderful Italian dinner. Oh, and some wonderful Red Wines as we were exploring....

We had had enough of the crazy city and headed for Cape Cod for a few days. Decided that Hyannis was a good central location to work out of -- and went on the hunt for a great motel value now that the "off season" was here. How about $39 a night with indoor and outdoor pools, a whirlpool for my ankle, right downtown Hyannis, continental breakfast, and a nice clean, well decorated room!! Not to mention sunny weather in the 70's!!

We were there 3 days and the weather was so spectacular you can't believe it. One day we headed for the beach just to hang out in the sun. Haley even braved the water!! Fun Italian picnic in the sand and just absorbed those last rays of summer -- mmmmmmmm.

Spent a whole day our at Nantucket -- we flew over - 15 minutes vs 1 1/2 hours on the ferry!! Great views on such a beautiful day. Strict Architectural controls make the whole island very homogeneous in look. Didn't see Martha Stewart there anywhere--but you can imagine her in her garden. Beautiful views, gorgeous estates, great shops in town. We took a tour around the Island, so got to see all the sites -- the problem was we could hardly understand the guide!! His New England English was so thick, you could only catch about every third word!

The day couldn't be beat. We grabbed a great sandwich and headed, on foot, to the nearest beach. My ankle held up pretty well -- about 1/2 mile each way. Sat on the dock and talked to the locals, basked in the sun, and enjoyed the beautiful views. Had a great discussion with "the man with the big balls"! He owns and rents out buoys that the boats tie up to in the harbor in the summer. They have to be removed in the fall, as the harbor ices over and would drag the buoys out to sea. He has a barge with a hoist on it to grab them out of the water. Fascinating guy -- going to winter in Seattle this year.

Phil and Haley played a little golf one afternoon, while I drove the cart. Only 9 holes, but the day and the setting made it a fun afternoon.

My friend Haley has lots of "chutzpah". We figured out where the Kennedy Compound was at Hyannisport -- and she just drove in there (no gates, guards, etc). They were getting ready for the RFK annual charity golf tournament. I'm sure people thought we were part of the help arriving!! Haley jumped out of the car, and took pictures of both RFK's house and JFK's!! Lot's of guts, that Haley!! No body even looked cross eyed at us...

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PHIL-OSOPHIES

Wouldn't you just know it! I have supported and followed those darn Ducks (and the Beav's in some situations!) and PSU too. They've broken my heart -- all of them -- time after time, season after season. So what happens? Of course, the year I leave town and can't even watch them on TV most of the time, and they are all Nationally ranked!! IF they show one of their games here in the East -- it starts at 10:30 or so -- and I'm asleep before the first quarter is over!! It just isn't fair.

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Decided we wanted to see P-town (Provincetown, at the end of the Cape). Took the scenic route out there through tiny settlements of summer houses glistening in the fall sun, their leaves blowing in little swirls around the yards. P-town was extremely busy! Had a hard time finding a place to park and check things out. The first thing we noticed was a lot of same sex folks holding hands -- everywhere. Had no idea this was a big hangout for the gay community. It was the most bustling place we had seen on the whole Cape -- and the most difficult to get to...

Sunday our great visit and adventure from home had to come to an end. A little more visiting, a little more looking, and a lot of waiting in line to get off the Cape -- and we were bound back to Boston. Haley had an early flight home, so we bid our adieu's and gave her an evening of peace and quiet. Off to Concord and Lexington for the Rolling White House that had been parked for most of the week!

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