From the quiet splendor of the Gulf Coast, to the grand "floating" Casinos of Biloxi, to the challenge of the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail courses, to the craziness of Mardi Gras, and onward to the regal mansions of Natchez and historic Vicksburg we saw people really enjoying life. From the tiny college town of Oxford MS, to upbeat Graceland and Beale St. in Memphis, and finally to soothing Hot Springs National Park, we found Southerners to have an incomparable easy going outlook on life.
Since we left you last month, we have been on the move. Although we enjoyed the excitement of the well-known beach locales in Florida, we really felt the scenery and fine sand beaches of the Northern Gulf are underrated. We felt so relaxed on nearly deserted, lovely beaches from the panhandle through the Alabama and Mississippi coastlines.
Alabama showed us real variety. The Bellingrath Gardens were well worth the trip - one of the top 5 gardens in the US. After enjoying a nice afternoon there, we headed for more history in Montgomery and Selma. Still seems impossible that a mere 40 years ago, conditions in the South were so deplorable.
Robert Trent Jones, in partnership with the State of Alabama, has built a string of golf resorts throughout the state. We chose the Capitol facility, near Montgomery to sample. Each location has at least two regulation courses, and often a third or executive course too. We played "The Legislator" - a tough track, but we enjoyed the outing through trees and bayous with beautiful hanging moss.
Then it was Mardi Gras--The REAL Mardi Gras--What an experience! As crowded and bawdy as it is, it was also very well disciplined. Yes, everyone was having a crazy good time, spilling out from every club and storefront, throwing beads from every balcony, but there was nothing that even hinted at being dangerous. No, you didn't venture off by yourself or into the back alleys - but that's just common sense in any big city.
The parades (we saw both night and daytime varieties) were excellent--big, gaudy fantasy representations on the floats with fun loving locals heaving "throws" at the crowds. These baubles include not only beads, but doubloons, special cups, stuffed animals, and all manner of carnival toys.
Special Mardi Gras related Clubs sponsor the event with everything from lavish parties and balls, to charity events, and, of course, the parades that go on for almost 2 weeks before "Fat Tuesday" - Mardi Gras Day. Many days have 2 or 3 parades in a day. It is a very long and proud tradition in this city that goes well beyond the street partying that most people think of as Mardi Gras.
But when it's over on Fat Tuesday - it is over! The city wastes no time in trying to get things back to normal along the parade routes in the afternoon and evening. The French Quarter parties on til midnight, but at that hour, everything closes, the streets are cleared, and the crews come in - no questions, no problems. We were amazed at how well groomed things looked the next day, compared to how bad they looked the day before! We did spend a couple more days in town, so we could see the sites of New Orleans.
After a restful weekend with friends at their cabin near Monroe, LA, we were on the road again. We were lucky enough to be here during the Natchez Spring Pilgrimage, where they open many of their antebellum homes to tourists. An extremely well organized event, and definitely worth seeking out the homes scattered throughout the area.
After a visit to Vicksburg's Civil War Park and a quick peak at the Capitol in Jackson, MS (one of the nicest we've seen), we were off for Oxford, MS., home of 'Ole Miss, more formally known as the University of Mississippi. A charming little town with interesting people and perfect shops surrounding the Courthouse square. The campus was exactly as it should have been - very Southern, very stately.
On our way to Memphis, we made a couple of stops to collect some pictures for my Mom who lived in this area in her early years. Wonder if we captured anything she'll remember!! We shot the oldest things we could find - sorry Mom!
We fully expected Graceland to be really "cheesy", but decided it was an icon we had to visit. We were pleasantly surprised. A real walk back in time - including furnishings right out of the 60's and 70's. The green shag carpet, and orange, brown, and gold furniture were too much! All his gold/platinum records and his awards are in the Trophy Room - we had forgotten what a volume of work he had done. We also didn't realize all the charities he helped over the years. He looks like a real saint compared to some of today's "entertainers" - even with his "swivel hips"!!
Our last major stop this month was the Hot Springs National Park in Hot Springs, AR. A very different park, it is the smallest National Park, consisting of a few hundred acres surrounding the edge of the town. The springs were deemed worthy of protecting long before the idea of National Parks took shape. As transportation improved, and the word of the healing powers of the 47 Hot Springs spread, people began flocking to the area for all kinds of "cures".
Bathhouses and lavish hotels sprung up around the springs at the base of the mountain in the early 1900's. Over time, the baths fell out of favor, and were eventually taken over by the Park Service. The exteriors have all been restored, one bathhouse operates, and one has become the Visitor Center and is fully restored. Hot Springs is a cute town (and they make sure you know that their boy, Bill Clinton, grew up here!) and people still come "to take the waters". With 850,000 gallons gushing forth each day, the water runs freely in many locations around town.
We nestled into The Historic Arlington Hotel that has its own operating bathhouse. The bathing routine takes place in equipment that may be original to the reconstructed hotel from the 1920's. A whirlpool bath where the attendant actually bathes you!, a sitz bath, a steam, and then the hot packs and body wrap, followed by a needle shower, and finally, a relaxing massage. You leave there a total mushball! All for $45!
The people we have met throughout this month have been the warmest, friendliest and most engaging we have experienced. Their senses of humor about life and the South made for an experience we won't soon forget.
We hope spring has arrived in Charbonneau and that the tees are flying! We'll be home when the ground warms up and the parties get going -we're starting to count the weeks but still loving the Adventure!